Glamorous 90’s – GUCCI in the hands of TOM FORD
- 1990 – Gucci’s creative director Dawn Mello hires Tom Ford.
- 1992 – With the leaving of design director Richard Lambertson, Tom Ford took over his position, heading the brand’s ready-to-wear collection, fragrances, image, advertising and store design.
- 1993 – Ford was in charge designing eleven product lines.
- 1994 – Ford was promoted to the position of creative director.
- 1995-99 – In 1999 Gucci sales increased by 90% .
- 1996 – Tom Ford won the CFDA Award for International Designer of the Year.
- 1999 – Gucci house was valued about $4.3 billion.
Tom Ford absolutely put his stamp on the 90’s and turned into a sexy, stylish and glamorous era.
Not just in fashion, but in architecture, in design and in music retro influences were seen. Just as the 70’s rejected the trends of the 60’s but embraced fashion of the 50’s. The exact same thing happened in the 90’s; everyone wanted to move away from the 80’s trends and re-form a new vision.
Gucci was a struggling house by the end of the 1980, nobody wanted to buy Gucci any more. Tom Ford was in the right place and time to move away from America and to start a career at Gucci’s headquarter in Europe. As he says, ‘‘I had this moment to basically to do whatever I wanted and do what I thought is right.’’
In the early 90’s he was mainly working behind the scenes, but by 1994 he was promoted as the creative director of the house. His first debut was in 1994, then his success continued… he was credited with putting the glamour back to fashion with introducing Halston-style velvet hipsters, skinny satin shirts and car-finish metallic patent boots. Ford remade Gucci as an edgy, stylish, sexy, and exclusive fashion label with slick, skin-flaunting designs.
The 1996 Fall/Winter RTW collection contained iconic pieces from Tom Ford. This collection set the house’s modern fashion forward look.
The mood of the show was described classical elegance with a sexy twist. Creating masculine look with the swept-back hairs and mixing it up with extremely shapely clothes. Music and lightning are all in contrast just as the pattern of the show, starting with blacks and navies and finishing with the famous white jersey dresses. Tom Ford defines this collection as “luxe with an edge,’’ it has all the elements of a “new classicism’’.
Looks are monochromatic from head to toe, and everything matches from shoes to belts…. Shirts are open to the waist, shoulders are detailed, long skirts are split up in the front, and emphasised hips appear with strategic cutouts and signature belts. Red and navy velvet tuxedos are bringing back glamour of the Studio 54 era. The whole collection is very neutral without any patterns, Tom Ford says, “Less colour, much less colour. In fact, we’re showing navy, white, black, camel.”
The famous white silk jersey dresses not only defined The Designer, but also defined fashion of the 90’s. With bringing back the redesigned white dresses at 2004, well, that was the final show of the Ford-Gucci era.
‘Gucci simplifies for fall ‘96’ – Klensch, Elsa, http://cgi.cnn.com/STYLE/9607/24/gucci.96/
Gucci Fall 1996 Fashion Show – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=njFcEohDJBQ
OWN Visionaries: Tom Ford Documentary
GUCCI AND GOLIATH – Burrough, Bryan, http://www.bryanburrough.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/12/july-1999.pdf
Charlie Rose – FORD, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ZgKEUI7XAY
GUCCI DEFINES MODERN ELEGANCE – Petroff, Daniela. Associated Press. 1996. http://www.apnewsarchive.com/1996/Gucci-Defines-Modern-Elegance/id-55f207d4c5dff09be68caa96ea28f4d1